Seychelles

By Richard Lewis on January 23, 2018

One thousand miles off the coast of Kenya lies a small archipelago in the middle of the Indian Ocean. Too small to appear on many world maps, the Seychelles define a secluded paradise. Flying from Nairobi, Kenya, the flight takes four hours nonstop, before the flight attendants open the doors revealing the eighty-five degree sun and breezy weather. Immediately I understood that this vacation would represent the simplicity in life, and remind me breeze by breeze that this kind of experience only happens once in a lifetime.

My Accommodation: Banyan Tree

The residence is home to three restaurants, Creole, American, and Thai. While trying local Creole food was a nice touch, the Thai restaurant was my favorite, and it even offered a Thanksgiving Dinner for the holiday. 

The service at the Banyan was good overall, but had holes here and there. The facilities at the hotel—excluding the villas—were average, and one can understand why the Banyan is undergoing renovations in the winter of 2018. There is mildew and mold found in the corners of the living spaces. The outdoor equipment shows its age, and there are cosmetic changes that once changed, will help enhance the ascetics of the resort. The rooms and views make the Banyan Tree a paradise of its own, however until the renovations are completed, it a little too pricey for the appearance.

Our first morning on the largest island within the Seychelles, Mahe, we drove to Eden Island. Eden Island is undergoing gentrification, but it is also home to Mahe’s fishing village. We pulled into the parking lot and were greeted by Captain Nick, our guide and master fisherman for the afternoon. The town of Mahe is small and charming. The beauty lies within the brightly-colored houses, the children walking to school in matching outfits, and the local commitment to limiting pollution, which makes Mahe one of the best fishing spots in the world. Marlin, Yellow fin Barracuda, and Sailfish are just the top of a very long list of species found in these waters. After catching three small yellow fin, our captain docked us back and we drove home with one of the fish, leaving Captain Nick with two for his family’s dinner. When we returned, the chef from the Banyan Tree filleted the tuna in the kitchen and delivered the freshest sashimi to us on the beach! He also grilled some of the fish with a teriyaki marinade for us to enjoy. The term “fresh” doesn’t do the food justice!

The second day, we explored the island’s local markets in Victoria, and visited the Seychelles National Botanical Garden. There are two main markets in Victoria: the local craft market and the fresh market. After arriving in the town square, you turn the corner onto Market Street. The road turns into a market square of its own, free of cars and dedicated to trade. The crafts are decorated with sea shells, and one of their most famous items is a coconut encapsulated in seashells, coco de mer. If buying local crafts aren’t your thing, continue past them and the aroma of fresh fish waiting to be filleted envelopes your nostrils. Watch as local restaurant owners haggle prices, and then move onto the fresh vegetable section of the market. After finishing up shopping for the holidays, we took a taxi to the Botanical Garden.

The Gardens were full of beautiful flowers of every color, native to the Seychelles. The Gardens go on for acres, and one could easily spend three to four hours exploring and smelling all the native plants. Nestled in between the bushes and fauna is a small hut where two women sit out front with a massive green leaf, used as a fan. After a small conversation and an even smaller $5 fee, the ladies will lead you to an area full of the native Aldabra Tortoise. The fee includes thirty minutes with the tortoises, and a large branch full of leaves to feed them. The oldest tortoise, Hannah, is thought to be more than 90 years old, and has been living in the Botanical Gardens for more than 15 years.

Our third day in paradise was devoted to the living species found underneath the crystal blue water. We headed back to Eden Island where we went to Big Blue Divers for a morning and afternoon diving trip. They have the equipment and guides to help certified master divers and first-time divers alike. After filing out the necessary paperwork, we loaded into a pickup with the other divers and headed to the boat for the afternoon. My advice: dive right in! The first dive was amazing, with a plethora of fish, algae, and coral rocks to see and interact with. The second dive, however, told the story of bleaching, with much of the coral white as snow, and marine life hard to find. The highlights of the dive were swimming next to sea turtles, and playing hide and seek with some Moray Eels.

The highlight of the Seychelles came on our last day there. The sun was shining with a slight breeze to cool off the sun soaked skin of our bodies. It was time for one of our final dips in the Indian Ocean, before we had to go back and begin packing our suitcases. The south side of the island was the only place where there were waves big enough to entertain, exactly where the Banyan Tree was located. As I was going over my favorite moments of the trip, my mother noticed a bottle floating a little farther out. My sister swam out a few yards to grab it and bring it to shore to throw away. “Wouldn’t it be cool if there was a note in it?” I shouted as she grabbed it. After a moment of silence, she screamed, “There is a note in it!” We ran as fast as we could to shore, dried our hands off and opened the bottle. Here is one side of the note we found:

Unfortunately, it was written in German, but it was dated 1945, which sparked our interest. There were no guests at the hotel that were from Germany, so I sent the pictures to a friend from Berlin. At first, he thought this was a joke because of the contents of the letter.

22 July, 1945

Dear receiver,

Please do not throw this note away. My fate is extraordinary and unbelievably terrible. I am in need of help. I write in German because only a German can help. The German submarine U34 commander, Admiral Reitz, cast me to this lonely island from where I look for your help. And from it I do not know the name nor the coordinates. Therefore, dear receiver, I am openly admitting that I am an agent, spy, traitor, or whatever you wish to see me. I am working for the British secret service known to the German officials. I was operating in Kenya and was exposed as a traitor. They kidnapped me and brought me to the previously mentioned submarine in attempt to extract my secrets. When I did not break, they left me at this island to break my will until May. But nobody has come. I hate this war and I am willing to reciprocate anyone who helps me I am lacking basic needs – please help me!

Irene von Merenburg

To this day, we still don’t know if the note is a prank, or the resolution to a WWII mystery. Regardless, it was an exciting and interesting way to end the trip. Overall, the Seychelles are some of the most beautiful islands to visit. The pearly white beaches and the turquoise water offers a picturesque paradise. The people are friendly and eager to share stories of their culture. A destination to add to any travelers list indeed!